On to the final part of my travels, I’m going to ramble a little bit about the last three days in Beijing and the journeying home etc. I think I mentioned the other day that we went out on the Friday night which was the first real night out of the trip, excluding the bizarre keep-away-from-the-hostel night in Tokyo. That was fairly cool and not too drunken and I’m far too distracted by The West Wing right now to construct decent sentences! This is, I believe, the series finale and as such some pretty big stuff is going down with the POTUS’s daughter… not a grand time to start writing a blog about something that happened a week ago. But then, when is a good time? “Ten past never?” to quote Ross from earlier today?
So, to Beijing. We went much more for the tourist approach for this final stint. On Saturday I embarked on a nice day. I don’t mean it was a nice day, I mean I was challenged to be nice all day – to Tam and Lou at least! In the morning, thankfully sans hangover for yours truly, Tam, Lou and I set out to the Summer Palace which looks like a lovely place and I can imagine it’s beautiful in the actual summer. Alack, we managed to pick the smoggiest day of the year so far to visit, and also the day that half a million natives chose to visit! (I have no foundation for that figure whatsoever.) With these two factors coming into play it made the trip less enjoyable than it could have been – as can be seen by the photos the smog look is not entirely attractive, and getting around when it’s so crowded isn’t exactly easy and stress-free either. We did manage to find quite a secluded place by taking an off-road sort of path up a hill – warming up for the Great Wall! – where the views would have been magnificent if not for The Smog™! After that little adventure we failed miserably to find a subway station and instead wound up in a taxi to the Olympic Village. Once again, this was underwhelming largely due to the grey skies and dirty feel to the air. By this point we were all getting a bit grumpy; grey is quite a downer when you’ve had sun for the main part of two weeks previous. One can see how the stage for the Olympics could look impressive though – the “Bird’s Nest” stadium looks fairly cool from the outside even against the smoggy backdrop and the atmosphere around there must have been fantastic during the actual games. Lou informed us that apparently in the run up to the Olympics they shut down a load of factories in Beijing so as to counter the smog issue and present an attractive and healthy front to the athletes and the viewing world. I don’t know how true that is, but what I saw last week is a far cry from the nice scenes on the TV so it’s certainly feasible.
Having said that, Saturday was the only truly smoggy awful day we had while in China. Xi’an looked a bit manky at times and Sunday wasn’t too pretty either, but we had more clear days than we did bad, particularly the final Monday which was lovely. Eurgh I’m detailing the weather. How terribly British of me… Anyway, to revitalise from the smog day on Saturday we went for a nice gluttonous dinner in the Western-y area of Beijing city centre (“Let’s Burger!” was the name of the place, and burger we did – though I’m not sure how burger can be a verb…) followed by manicures and foot massages. That’s far from my usual way of spending an evening but every now and then it’s quite nice to be lazy and fat and indulgent… Certainly that’s the official party line for now, and not that I was just following the crowd rather than fending for myself in a busy Chinese market! After the indulgence it was early(ish) to bed in order to wake up at 6am on Sunday and journey out to the Great Wall. My overall analysis of “Nice Day” was that it was a success, but niceness is really not something I want to adopt full-time! As I said the other day, I think I’m going to make it a monthly event, following on from the one in early March – which again, I think I succeeded admirably with. Perhaps I’m not the best person to judge that as I think I’m always the epitome of sweetness and light. Nah, I didn’t even type that with a straight face! I’m loud and proud about my cruel, deadpan, sarcastic, dry, acerbic, harsh, rude, bordering-on-offensive “sense of humour” – and you know I’m not alone! I’ve all but established I’m actually just boring without it, so to Hell with dull, nice Lauren.
Ahem. That was quite the digression! The Great Wall of China – heard of it? It’s quite famous apparently! Basically there’s this lengthy stretch of wall (4000 miles?), which I’m sure I could remember some exciting facts about if I wanted to, that was essentially supposed to protect the kingdom of China or something. I’m such an impressive History graduate… Regardless of what it’s purported to have done it makes a darn good attraction and provides some stunning views. As a feat of engineering alone it’s incredible; it wasn’t even built as one construction originally apparently, the watchtowers *I think* predate most of the wall as I guess originally they served the greater purpose. Thankfully this is not a history lesson (anyone still think I should consider teaching?) so I shall proceed to explore my own minimal experience of the site. Without wanting to disappoint anyone, I’ll firstly confess that we did not walk the entire length! I’m duly ashamed. Three hours scrambling up steep steps and down rubble slopes was quite sufficient though thank ye, and the voyage culminated in a descent over the river on some form of zip wire mechanism. It took two and a half hours to drive out there from Lou’s place in Beijing and we were freezing on arrival so purchased some rather fetching “I Climbed the Great Wall” jumpers. I can’t speak for Tam or Lou here but, snug and useful as mine is, I don’t think it’s ever going to leave the house again! They were a Godsend though for certain periods during the day and the photos demonstrate quite how cool we did look… If the jumpers were a gift from God (and at £4 apiece somebody was certainly gifting us something), the panda hat was a gift from the God of Comedy! What possessed Louise to buy it we will never know, but it served as a fantastic mood-lifter and motivator and once again plays a pivotal role in some rather hilarious photos as well as giving us something to laugh at incessantly. It’s probably one of those “you had to be there” things but by my troth dear sirs, it was the best use of £2 ever. At the end of the walk a lady on one of the stalls saw Lou still sporting it and grabbed something from the back of her shop – it was only a bloody wolf hat! I really wanted that wolf hat in that moment… but alas the woman was not going to match the marvellous price of the panda and we moved on.
In summary the Great Wall was a worthy experience. As walls go it’s great enough I guess. Despite my ‘humorous’ comment of “this wall ain’t so great” whilst out of breath and in pain at one of the many peaks, it is quite… great. I’m certainly glad we went; not only can I now say – and advertise on an oversized grey jumper – “I’ve climbed the Great Wall”, but I can also consider myself privileged to have surveyed some impressive views and taken some lovely photos and… well, make people jealous that I’ve seen first-hand something many will only ever see on TV – or from space, if they’re lucky! Once again after this venture we succumbed to a large meal (Chinese this time, aptly enough!) following massages intending to stave off the agony we were promised as a result of the wall climb. It actually seemed to work too, I fully promote the idea of sports massages, and if I ever do any sort of sport again in my life I’ll probably indulge in them more often.
Monday was the final day for me and Tam and as afore-mentioned we were blessed with a warm and sunny one. Lou was at work so Tam and I went out to Tian’amen Square and the Forbidden City on our own, but we had arranged to meet the Bec there. Following on from our visit she decided to come up to Beijing for a few days and so spent the best part of Monday with us. As you may know, the square is like the embodiment of Communist China. It includes the building where Mao’s body is preserved and on display 5 mornings a week, if one is so inclined to queue for hours to traipse past a dead dictator. Not really my thing, but it’s not open on Mondays even if we had been tempted! After meeting Bec we wandered around a bit, looked at a few statues and memorials and marvelled at the row of huge red flags rippling in the wind. Commie Bec was particularly impressed but I was also more moved than you’d know from the pictures Tam took! (links to follow) Bec then ran off for a bit to check in to her hostel, leaving me and Tam to take in the Forbidden City. I really was quite uninspired by the Forbidden City. The concept of it is pretty remarkable, the fact that entry to this entire city was… forbidden! Ditto there were some fascinating snippets of info both in our guidebook and around the buildings – we were particularly disturbed by the thought of the Emperor having 2000 concubines, most of whom were aged between 14 and 17. The mind boggles, but I’d really rather it didn’t… In reality though it all struck me as a bit samey. The buildings looked good and the size of it is unexpected but for whatever reason I wasn’t as awestruck as I feel I should have been. It might have contributed that I was quite hungry and hot and had a headache but I was, I guess, underwhelmed. If I was underwhelmed by the place itself, that’s nothing next to my feelings for the “milk tea” that Tam and I bought in the cute coffee shop within the city walls. From perusing the menu milk tea seemed the most likely to resemble good old fashioned British builders’ tea, but by God it was far from that! The milk part was on the money at least, but it was the most bizarre, sickly sweet, cold drink I’ve encountered (at least of the non-alcoholic variety) with these strange, round, black lumps in of… I don’t know what. Bec seemed to think when we told her afterwards that they were some sort of fruit but they tasted of nothing and had a bizarre gooey texture. Needless to say neither of us ate too many of those. Again, there is a particularly unattractive photograph of yours truly showing disapproval.
After the Forbidden City we met up with both Bec and Lou in front of the “benevolent” Mao portrait. Once again this seemed to be a photo op for several Chinese tourists, which frankly was quite embarrassing. The worst was the bloke who brazenly took a photograph of me and Tam sat on the edge of a flowerbed thing without asking or even engaging eye contact! I know I’ve already said it, but I just don’t get it!! The four of us went off for dinner, all-you-can-eat-and-drink Teppanyaki (for about £17 apiece). Bec and I were almost ashamed with the gluttony of it all. It was quality food too, all cooked at our table by this fella who couldn’t have been much over 20, if at all. To get that kind of service and standard in England I can imagine you’d be paying considerably more than £17! Still, nice to enjoy the luxuries from time to time. And it was very nice to share my final night there with Bec. The two of us sat, chomping on raw salmon and tuna and freshly grilled steak and lamb, and reflected. A year ago you never would have imagined Lobster and Hermit chowing down at a highbrow Beijing establishment – it’s so very far away from demolishing pizza on a street corner in Liverpool at 3am on a Winter’s night. It’s funny quite how much things can change, and that too was contemplated, over fish-flavoured baked banana and parma violet-flavoured ice cream!
Despite that final, somewhat pensive but very enjoyable, night I have yet to reflect much on the trip as a whole. And I think that’s still to come. It might be easier with the benefit of hindsight, and a week or back at NCC under my belt, to evaluate it properly. I rather doubt, as ever, that there’ll be any interest in reading such an account, but nonetheless as and when it is writen, so shall it be published.
Finally, the travelling back home was quite a hardship. The flight from Beijing to Paris seemed to drag on for an indeterminable amount of time, albeit punctuated with moments of humour, primarily provided by Benoit. While still in Beijing airport an air crew walked past us, speaking in French. Tamzin for some reason decided to declare that the guy who was talking (due to being French) had better be on our plane, as he seemed like a good trustworthy Frenchman! I have no idea what was the matter with her at this point. I didn’t see who she was talking about and let it slide, until we got on the plane and she saw the man again and pointed him out to me. At this point (apparently I wasn’t entirely in my right mind either) I boldly decided that his name should and must be Benoit, and so it stuck. From then on every time the poor man walked past us or did… anything of a stewardesque nature, Tam and I either got fits of giggles or elaborated on the story of Benoit, the French flight attendant. For the record, the pilot was titled Phillippe and another of the male attendants was christened Rene. Insanity was obviously prevalent during that flight, but we sure as hell needed something to keep us going through the ten hours and the cold air and the scant selection of films. (An episode of iPodded West Wing helped too, as did finishing off The Time Traveler’s Wife.)
I’m half-tempted to rant about the shocking state of Paris Charles de Gaulle airport, and take off on my patriotic spiel I was concocting on the final leg of the flight from Paris to Birmingham… but I think those two things combined would result in my sounding rather xenophobic and/or nationalist… and coupled with my unenthused response to Communism Central in Beijing, I’d be in danger of having BNP membership forms sent to my house. So I’ll stop for now! But the patriotic rant at least is certainly still in the pipeline. All good practice for when I’m a speechwriter of the ilk of Toby and Sam and our latest friend Will (West Wing reference, I apologise) as per one of the many fleeting job aspirations currently in circulation!
Signing off before I fall off the chair…
Recent Comments